Okinawa has so many personalities and one of its distinct characters is Okinawa Food, including Okinawa Soba, Sata Andagi, Rafute, abundant seafood, and the unique ocean grape seaweed – Umibudo.

Okinawa soba at onnanoeki (Nakayukui Market) - Okinawa Travel Guide | justonecookbook.com

Our family took a trip to Okinawa – the most southern islands of Japan last December. Since it was winter time, we didn’t get to enjoy the famed beautiful sandy beaches but there are so many things to do in Okinawa. From visiting the caves at Okinawa World to seeing the giant whale sharks at Okinawa Churaumi Aquarium, we got to experience the many personalities of Okinawa and of course, ate all different types of Okinawan food.

Nami shared Okinawan recipes on the blog as I shared our travel experience in Okinawa. Hopefully, our travel tips will come in handy when you are ready to visit this island paradise.

For this travel series, we’ll share the following posts:

  1. Okinawa World – おきなわワールド (recipe – Rafute)
  2. Ocean Expo Park and Ryukyu Village – 海洋博物館・琉球村 (recipe – Sata Andagi)
  3. Shuri Castle and Nakagusuku Castle – 首里城 & 中城城 (recipe – Taco Rice)
  4. Kokusai Dori, Shikinaen, Busena Marine Park, and Peace Museums – 国際通り, 識名園, ブセナ海中公園 (recipe – Okinawa Soba)
  5. Okinawa food, rental car, and accommodations

Watch Journey to Okinawa (沖縄) Travel Highlights

Last December, our family traveled to Okinawa (沖縄) the most southern island of Japan and had an amazing time.

Thank you for following our journey to Okinawa and this is the final post in the series. In this post, we’ll share all the delicious Okinawa food we tried on the trip, where we ate, and what we liked. We’ll also share our experience renting and driving a car in Okinawa and where we stayed.

Okinawa Food

Authentic Okinawa food was quite interesting, it’s not quite like Japanese or Chinese food but there are some similarities yet the flavors and taste profiles are uniquely Okinawan. We made it our goal to try as much local food as we could when we were there. Ready to go eat? Let’s go!

First Makishi Public Market 第一牧志公設市場

You can’t talk about food in Okinawa without mentioning First Makishi Public Market. Opened in 1950 and located in the heart of Naha City, you can experience fresh local seafood, meat, tofu, preserved food, and other produce. There are many entrances to the market from Kokusai Dori (International Street) so don’t worry if you miss one of them.

Google Maps First Makishi Public Market
Click to enlarge map.
entrance to market on Kokusai Dori - Okinawa Travel Guide | justonecookbook.com

There are actually 2 parts to the “market”, there is an arcade portion outside where you can find local souvenirs good, salt specialty shops, local snacks, and other packaged food.

First Makishi Public Market - Okinawa Travel Guide | justonecookbook.com
Arcade outside First Makishi Public Market.
salt speciality shop at First Makishi Public Market - Okinawa Travel Guide | justonecookbook.com
Salt speciality shop.
different salt flavors at First Makishi Public Market - Okinawa Travel Guide | justonecookbook.com
salt ice cream at First Makishi Public Market - Okinawa Travel Guide | justonecookbook.com
Salt flavor ice cream.
ukon herb at First Makishi Public Market - Okinawa Travel Guide | justonecookbook.com
shops selling Okinawa souvenir at First Makishi Public Market - Okinawa Travel Guide | justonecookbook.com

You can buy local treats like muchi (similar to mochi) and popo (similar to crepe) at the food stalls in the aracade.

Okinawa mochi (muchi) at First Makishi Public Market - Okinawa Travel Guide | justonecookbook.com
black sugar popo snack at First Makishi Public Market - Okinawa Travel Guide | justonecookbook.com

As you browse around the arcade, you will see signs with 第一牧志公設市場. Go on in. This is the inner part and the actual market itself. Inside the market, there’s a full array of fresh produce and meat vendors.

pork vendor at First Makishi Public Market - Okinawa Travel Guide | justonecookbook.com
Pork vendor.
shops selling umibudo at First Makishi Public Market - Okinawa Travel Guide | justonecookbook.com
vendor selling dried food at First Makishi Public Market - Okinawa Travel Guide | justonecookbook.com
Preserved vegetable and seafood vendor.
vendor selling dried food at First Makishi Public Market - Okinawa Travel Guide | justonecookbook.com
shellfish for sale at First Makishi Public Market - Okinawa Travel Guide | justonecookbook.com
Japanese egg omelette and fish cake for sale at First Makishi Public Market - Okinawa Travel Guide | justonecookbook.com
pork vendor at First Makishi Public Market - Okinawa Travel Guide | justonecookbook.com
vendor selling fresh seafood at First Makishi Public Market - Okinawa Travel Guide | justonecookbook.com
vendor selling seafood at First Makishi Public Market - Okinawa Travel Guide | justonecookbook.com

What the market is also known for are the restaurants on the floor above. Once you buy your seafood, the restaurant upstairs will cook it for you for a fee (by per person). This is called mochiage (持ち上げ ). We had a fabulous lunch there and it was really expensive compared to everywhere else we ate. The lunch for the seafood and prepping cost was (¥18,000) for 5 people.

vendor selling seafood at First Makishi Public Market - Okinawa Travel Guide | justonecookbook.com
vendor selling seafood at First Makishi Public Market - Okinawa Travel Guide | justonecookbook.com
vendor selling seafood at First Makishi Public Market - Okinawa Travel Guide | justonecookbook.com

For our lunch, we selected fish, scallops, turban snail, butterfly fan lobster, and shrimps. After purchasing the seafood, we discussed with the stall on how we wanted each of the ingredients to be cooked.

seafood for cooking at First Makishi Public Market - Okinawa Travel Guide | justonecookbook.com
seafood for sale at First Makishi Public Market - Okinawa Travel Guide | justonecookbook.com
Ganjudo diner at First Makishi Public Market - Okinawa Travel Guide | justonecookbook.com
Ganjudo prepared our seafood for us.

In addition to the seafood we purchase, we also ordered rice balls and Okinawa soba from Ganjudo on the second floor for our meal.

onigiri at First Makishi Public Market - Okinawa Travel Guide | justonecookbook.com
grilled scallops at First Makishi Public Market - Okinawa Travel Guide | justonecookbook.com
grilled shrimp at First Makishi Public Market - Okinawa Travel Guide | justonecookbook.com
Okinawa soba at First Makishi Public Market - Okinawa Travel Guide | justonecookbook.com

The turban snail and butterfly fan lobster sashimi (ヤコウガイ 夜光貝) were so delicious.

shellfish sashimi at First Makishi Public Market - Okinawa Travel Guide | justonecookbook.com
grilled fish at First Makishi Public Market - Okinawa Travel Guide | justonecookbook.com

The butterfly fan lobster shell was used to make miso soup.

butterfly fan lobster miso soup at First Makishi Public Market - Okinawa Travel Guide | justonecookbook.com

We are not sure what is the proper negotiation etiquette for buying the seafood in the market. We recommend doing your research so you don’t overpay like we did.

Nagumagai Restaurant 名護曲レストラン

While driving around Okinawa visiting various places, we were always on the hunt for good food, especially Okinawan style cuisine. We found a roadside diner using Tabelog, which is Japan’s version of Yelp but only for food.

The restaurants we tried was Nagumagai Restaurant. Located right near the coast, it’s a partly a grocery store and partly a restaurant. They served mostly local Okinawan dishes and we enjoyed the authenticity of the flavors.

Nagumagai Restaurant braised pork rafute - Okinawa Travel Guide | justonecookbook.com
Rafute.
Nagumagai Restaurant fried mozuku - Okinawa Travel Guide | justonecookbook.com
Deep fried mozuku seaweed.
Nagumagai Restaurant goya champuru - Okinawa Travel Guide | justonecookbook.com
Goya champuru (bittermelon with tofu and eggs).
Nagumagai Restaurant Okinawa soba - Okinawa Travel Guide | justonecookbook.com
Soki soba.
Nagumagai Restaurant Okinawa Jushii ジューシー - Okinawa Travel Guide | justonecookbook.com
Jushii ジューシー.
umibudo seaweed salad 海ぶどうと海草のサラダ Okinawa Travel Guide | justonecookbook.com
Umibudo seaweed.

The food was tasty but not refined, but in line with what we expected from a roadside diner.

Onnanoeki Nakayukui Market おんなの駅「なかゆくい市場」

Another stop we made was the food stalls at Nakayukui market. There we tried different types of Okinawa soba, pig feet, and sata andagi (Okinawan donuts). It was fun to browse the market afterward to check out some Okinawa produce and products.

onnanoeki (Nakayukui Market) - Okinawa Travel Guide | justonecookbook.com
Okinawa soba shop at onnanoeki (Nakayukui Market) - Okinawa Travel Guide | justonecookbook.com
Okinawa soba at onnanoeki (Nakayukui Market) - Okinawa Travel Guide | justonecookbook.com
pig feet speciality shop Tonsaburo - Okinawa Travel Guide | justonecookbook.com
Okinawa style pig feet.
pig feet speciality shop Tonsaburo - Okinawa Travel Guide | justonecookbook.com
pig crossing sign - Okinawa Travel Guide | justonecookbook.com
Okinawa donut sata andagi stand - Okinawa Travel Guide | justonecookbook.com
Sata andagi stand with many flavor options.
sata andagi Okinawan donuts - Okinawa Travel Guide | justonecookbook.com
sata andagi Okinawan donuts - Okinawa Travel Guide | justonecookbook.com
yama imo mountain yam - Okinawa Travel Guide | justonecookbook.com
fresh mustard green in supermarket - Okinawa Travel Guide | justonecookbook.com
Okinawa red yam cookie pie - Okinawa Travel Guide | justonecookbook.com
Red yam pie.
Okinawa salt cracker - Okinawa Travel Guide | justonecookbook.com
Crackers with “snow salt”.
Okinawa limited purple yam and black sugar Pretz - Okinawa Travel Guide | justonecookbook.com
Black sugar and purple yam Pretz?
Okinawa coke can - Okinawa Travel Guide | justonecookbook.com
Okinawa Awamori - Okinawa Travel Guide | justonecookbook.com
Okinawa awamori.
Snake liquor - Habu wine - Okinawa Travel Guide | justonecookbook.com
Snake liquor - Habu wine - Okinawa Travel Guide | justonecookbook.com
Snake liquor.
umibudo in a water tank - Okinawa Travel Guide | justonecookbook.com
Umibudo in a tank.

Yoshizaki Cafeteria 吉崎食堂

Now the finale, the best meal we had during our trip was at Yoshizaki Cafeteria. It’s an Izakaya rather than the “cafeteria” implied in its name. There are 2 locations in Naha City so we recommend stopping by if you have a chance during your visit.

Yoshizaki Cafeteria offers authentic Okinawan cuisine as well as standard Izakaya dishes.

Yoshizaki Cafeteria 吉崎食堂 Okinawa Travel Guide | justonecookbook.com
crispy bitter melon chips ゴーヤーチップス - Yoshizaki Cafeteria 吉崎食堂 Okinawa Travel Guide | justonecookbook.com
Crispy bitter melon chips.
peanut tofu 手作り じーまみ豆冨 - Yoshizaki Cafeteria 吉崎食堂 Okinawa Travel Guide | justonecookbook.com
Jimami (peanut tofu).
Yoshizaki Cafeteria 吉崎食堂 Okinawa Travel Guide | justonecookbook.com
spicy pork hotpot あぐー豚のラー油鍋 - Yoshizaki Cafeteria 吉崎食堂 Okinawa Travel Guide | justonecookbook.com
Spicy pork hot pot.
sashimi platter at Yoshizaki Cafeteria 吉崎食堂 Okinawa Travel Guide | justonecookbook.com
Sashimi platter.
umibudo seaweed salad 海ぶどうと海草のサラダ - Yoshizaki Cafeteria 吉崎食堂 Okinawa Travel Guide | justonecookbook.com
More umibudo, we couldn’t get enough of it.
chicken cracker 鶏せんべぇ - Yoshizaki Cafeteria 吉崎食堂 Okinawa Travel Guide | justonecookbook.com
Chicken cracker.
Pork feet Tebichi Nikomi てびち煮込み - Yoshizaki Cafeteria 吉崎食堂 Okinawa Travel Guide | justonecookbook.com
Pig feet.

Car Rental and Driving in Okinawa

I’ve been traveling to Japan with Nami for almost 15 years and never had to drive. It’s so convenient to get everywhere by train and it’s always on time. We usually get a JR Pass so we can travel for 1 week without worrying about transportation cost and it gives us the flexibility to change train time or destination.

However, in Okinawa, public transportation is not really an option for visitors to get around. The places we visited were quite far apart and there’s no easy way to get to them besides driving. Time to figure out how tricky it’ll be to drive in Japan.

car rental shuttle stop at Naha Airport - Okinawa Travel Guide | justonecookbook.com
OTS rent-a-car shuttle - Okinawa Travel Guide | justonecookbook.com

You can rent a car from many agencies and we decided to go with OTS. When you exit the airport, head left towards shuttle stop 1 to board the rental car shuttle.

OTS rent-a-car shuttle - Okinawa Travel Guide | justonecookbook.com

The rental process is straightforward and we opted for ETC (Electronic Toll Collection) and insurance. ETC allows you to take ETC entrance and exit on highways without having to pay the tolls manually and insurance is just for peace of mind.

foreigner driving car sticker - Okinawa Travel Guide | justonecookbook.com
“A foreigner is driving” sticker on the rental car.

Driving on the opposite side of the street wasn’t as tricky as I had expected and the car navigations systems provide really detailed instructions and images. The navigation system can be set to different languages.

AirBnb in Okinawa

While checking for accommodations in Okinawa, there were 5 of us (including my mother) so we needed 2 rooms and the hotel cost was quite high. The Hilton Doubletree would cost around $2,000 for 3 nights. Since we had a rental car, we didn’t have to stay right in downtown and had more flexibility on where to stay. We ended up with a 3 bedroom near San-A Naha Main Place for $165 a night.

Inside an Okinawa Airbnb - Okinawa Travel Guide | justonecookbook.com
Inside an Okinawa Airbnb - Okinawa Travel Guide | justonecookbook.com

We like to pack light when we travel so one of our criteria for renting an AirBnb is washer and dryer. This way we don’t have to bring too much clothes and when we get home we don’t have bags of laundry.

As AirBnb rules have changed in Japan since June 2018, if you plan on using AirBnb, make sure your host had property registered the unit.

Inside an Okinawa Airbnb - Okinawa Travel Guide | justonecookbook.com
Inside an Okinawa Airbnb - Okinawa Travel Guide | justonecookbook.com
Inside an Okinawa Airbnb - Okinawa Travel Guide | justonecookbook.com
Inside an Okinawa Airbnb - Okinawa Travel Guide | justonecookbook.com

Thank you for traveling in Okinawa with us and if you are interested in our other travel posts, head on over to our travel page. If you have any questions about traveling in Okinawa, leave a comment below and we’ll try our best to answer.

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I have always wanted to visit Japan! Especially Okinawa. Thank you for making this helpful information. When is the beat time to visit Okinawa?

Hi there,

Okinawan dishes are uncommon in Singapore and we would really love to learn how to make jimami (peanut tofu) and the famous Abura Miso. Would deeply appreciate it if you would consider these dishes as we cannot seem to find much recipe in English (especially for the Abura Miso).

We have tried your other Okinawan dishes and they taste amazingggg!! Thank you for taking the time to draft these recipes!

Fish is not abundant in their cuisine because of the warmer temps which make preserving fish difficult and the few fish species available to them. Goat, beef, and especially pork are far more consumed than fish.

Was that your first time in Okinawa?lots of good food in Okinawa and things to see .I have been going there over 50 year met and married an okinawan women 47 years ago.

great recipe , looks so delicious and explained very well thanks for the tips.

I’m really curious about the umibudo and its flavor. I saw it trending for awhile on mukbang videos on youtube but no one really describes the flavor or texture of it.

Loved it all!; I can’t get enough

Thanks for all the information had to cancel our trip to Japan this year due to illnes but we are in the process for 2019 in February we will be stopping at OKINAWA on a cruise.A fter the cruise will visiting from Tokyo to Hiroshima.
Regards
TERRY

Very informative and a great selection of photo’s. Thank you.

Loved the video, so many changes since my time there in the ’60’s!

Hello,
Thank you so much for your Japan travel posting. My husband and I plan to go Japan in Sep. Your information is very helpful. I love your picture tat you took during your trip. I’m just wondering if you can share with me about the camera. What kind of camera you use and it is automatic or manual set up. My picture doesn’t look nice like yours. If we don’t rent a car, could you please recommend other alternative. Did you fly from the main island to Okinawa? I look forward to hearing from you.
Thank you,
Angie Sumitani

This has been a wonderful trip down memory lane since I lived in Okinawa for 4 years many years ago. A lot has changed since then, but the people still seem to be as friendly as they were back then. Arrigato gozaimashita.

Sounds like a great trip…did you have WiFi? We did not know about it until our last trip to Tokyo.

These pictures alone make me want to go there. I am excited to go travel all over Japan. Thank you for all of your help these pictures are priceless.

My friend and I visited Okinawa main island in August 2015 and enjoyed it so much. Friends who went before said they didn’t like Okinawan cusine very much but I enjoyed it.

For our last dinner we went to a tiny restaurant which served traditional Okinawa dishes. Some we could not identify. I think they were probably shredded pigs ears (mimigaa) and some offal soup. Good we didn’t know then haha

I’m definitely going to return to Okinawa!