Let’s take a day trip to Uji (宇治), a picturesque riverside town located on the southern outskirts of Kyoto! Celebrated for its high quality matcha and home to one of Japan’s most ancient bridges, it brims with alluring history and tea culture.

Temple detail surrounded by autumn leaves

When autumn arrives, Kyoto culminates in a most enchanting display of colors. In this four-part autumn series, I will take you to some favorite and lesser-known destinations to experience the brilliance and beauty of the season in this former capital of Japan.

I recommend starting with the first two posts if you have yet to read them. In this post, I’ll be heading to South Kyoto, to Uji, which is famous for green tea, matcha, and some of Japan’s most prominent temples and scenes.

Red temple reflected in water

How to get to Uji

There are two railway stations in Uji: JR Uji Station and Keihan Uji Station.

You can easily reach JR Uji Station along the JR Nara Line from Kyoto Station. The rapid train takes 20 minutes, and the local train takes 30 minutes, costing 240 yen one way. The Japan Rail Pass also covers the train. However, the station is farther from the main attractions compared to Keihan Uji Station.

If you plan to arrive at Keihan Uji Station, you will need to take the Keihan Uji Line. If you are coming from central Tokyo, you can board the Keihan Uji Line from Sanjo Station or Gion Shijo Station. However, the Japan Rail Pass does not cover it, and the journey takes approximately 40 minutes.

What is Uji famous for?

Uji (宇治) is a small city between Kyoto and Nara, notably known as the birthplace of Japanese matcha. This quaint town, anchored by an idyllic riverside district, serves as the setting for the 11th-century literary classic, The Tale of Genji. It is also home to two UNESCO World Heritage Sites: Byodoin Temple and Ujigami-jinja Shrine.

River lines with stone walkways and autumn leaves

During the 13th century, two Buddhist monks, Saicho and Kukai, brought tea plants back from China. The famed Rinzai Zen priest Eisai encouraged the growth and production of tea. Uji is blessed with nutrient-rich soil and topography, perfect for growing tea. The news of Uji’s green tea spread, and it has become the famed city it is today.

Throughout Uji, you can find various tea fields and see the tea leaves up close. If you visit from April to October, you can even take part in green tea harvesting experiences.

Rows of green tea leaves at sunset

I rented a car and ventured out to Wazuka Tea Plantation, where I encountered some of the most breathtaking views I have ever seen!

Hills filled with rows of green tea leaves at golden hour

You might be wondering about the difference between green tea and matcha. First, matcha is made from green tea leaves. After harvesting, the leaves are washed several times and steamed to make aracha (crude tea). The aracha is sifted to remove smaller impurities and cut into smaller pieces known as tencha (processed tea). The tencha is then ground into matcha, traditionally using a stone mill or, more recently, a machine.

Byodo-In Temple

The main historical attraction in Uji is Byodo-In Temple, which was my first stop of the day. I decided to visit early in the morning as it gets busy during the afternoon.

A row of red maple trees lines the entrance to Byodo-in.

Despite arriving 10 minutes before opening, there was already a small line. To enter, there is a 600 yen entrance fee.

Temple surrounded by a moat and autumn leaves

The temple originated in 998 as a villa for the politician Fujiwara no Michinaga. In 1052, his son, Yorimichi Fujiwara, transformed the villa into a temple. In Buddhism, there is a theory that 1052 marked the beginning of ‘the end of the world.’ Yorimichi’s idea was to depict the temple as the ‘Pure Land.’ It was designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1994.

Byodo-In Temple Phoenix Hall

Taking center stage in the temple is the Phoenix Hall, which houses two golden Phoenix statues on its roof. Inside, there is a statue of Amida Buddha, with wall paintings depicting Amida’s nine grades of descent. The entrance to Byodo-In starts at 8:30 am, and tickets for the Phoenix Hall are sold at 9:00 am for an extra 300 yen inside the temple grounds. You are given a ticket with an allocated time, and you need to arrive at the entrance 5 minutes before. The guided tour provides access inside the Phoenix Hall and an up-close look at the impressive Amida Buddha. However, the tour is only in Japanese, with no audio guides.

Around the grounds, you can enjoy the stunning views of the temple reflecting in the water.

You can see the two golden phoenixes on the roof, which are featured on the 10,000 yen note. The temple itself is even on the 10 yen coin!

There is also a museum explaining the temple’s history, a small cafe, and small shrines surrounding the temple.

Byodo-In was undoubtedly one of the most impressive temple structures I have ever seen in Japan, and the autumn leaves made it that much more beautiful!

After exploring, wander the street outside, known as Byodo-In Omotesando, where shops sell local goods and cafes offer green tea and matcha souvenirs, sweets, and drinks.

I stopped by for a matcha green tea latte at ますだ茶舗 TEA STAND SHOP, which had a deep earthiness complemented by the sweet and creamy milk.

Torikiku

Throughout Uji, you’ll find various cafes and restaurants offering foods flavored with green tea and matcha – one popular dish is green tea soba. Along the narrow side streets, I stumbled across Torikiku, a family-run restaurant serving soba.

The homely atmosphere was welcoming and relaxing, offering an amazing value-for-money menu. For $8 (in 2023), I enjoyed a zaru green tea soba set with four pieces of sushi, a plate of tempura, and various pickles. Everything was delicious, and the green tea soba was spot on.

Taihoan

One way to enjoy Uji’s famous matcha is through a traditional tea ceremony. Various tea ceremonies and matcha-making experiences are available, but I opted for Taihoan, a small tea house close to Byodo-In.

Initially, I reserved a matcha-making experience, but they kindly let me join the tea ceremony for free! You can find more details about reservations on their website here.

The tea ceremony was held in a small tatami room, where a woman dressed in a kimono artistically made a bowl of matcha for each participant. She then guided us through the etiquette of presenting and drinking the matcha. It was my first time participating in a tea ceremony, and it was mesmerizing to witness how each movement was so precise and thought out. The bowl of matcha was accompanied by a small plate of wagashi (traditional Japanese sweet).

After the tea ceremony, I had my scheduled matcha-making experience. In the next room, a staff member will guide you through the meticulous process of creating a bowl of matcha. From using the current fingers to lift the bamboo ladle and whisk to creating the creamy foam on top of the matcha, they will teach you the ins and outs of making the perfect bowl of matcha.

Practicing match ceremony

Finally, you can enjoy your matcha and a small piece of wagashi. Some staff members could speak English, so you can understand the instructions easily.

Ujigami Shrine

After leaving Taihoan, I explored the bridges and islands along the Uji River. You can also take a leisurely boat ride while enjoying lunch.

In the evening, there is a cormorant fishing event. This photo was taken in Arashiyama a few years ago, but it is the same style of event.

Ujigami Shrine is estimated to have been built in 1060 and is considered Japan’s oldest standing Shinto Shrine. It was built as a guardian shrine to Byodo-In and was designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1994.

The shrine’s grounds are free to visit, and though there isn’t much to explore, it’s worth a visit. The autumn scenery complements the beautiful architecture, built in the nagare-zukuri style, where the asymmetrical gabled roof projects further outwards toward the entrance to protect worshippers.

Kosho-Ji Temple

Located a short walk away is Kosho-Ji Temple, originally built in 1233 but relocated to its current location in 1648.

Leading up to the temple is the Kotozaka slope, lined with rows of majestic maple trees.

Temple gate entrance looking through to autumn leaves

The entrance gate is also unique, with rounded edges, perfectly framing the autumn scenery.

The entrance is marked by an impressive garden with a five-storied stone pagoda, greenery, and a bell tower.

For 500 yen, you can explore the main hall, where you can see the ‘bloody ceilings’ made from the wooden boards of the former Fushimi-Momoyama Castle. Inside, there is a small garden, beautiful interior architecture, and a meditation room.

Temple grounds

If you plan on visiting in October, you can attend the Uji Tea Festival. Held on the first Sunday of October, priests make offerings of ceremonial bowls of tea in front of statues of the figures who helped establish Uji as a tea mecca.

Fukujuen Uji

What better way to end a trip to Uji than… you guessed it, more matcha! Fukujuen Uji is a tea shop selling green tea and matcha goods.

At the back is a small museum displaying the green tea production process and how it is made into matcha.

Upstairs is a workshop where you can grind green tea leaves into matcha powder on a stone mill. There is also a tea ceremony experience and pottery experience, which you can find on their website.

There is also a small restaurant selling matcha foods and desserts. I decided on a Uji matcha anmitsu, made from small cubes of agar jelly, red bean paste, mochi, various fruits, beans, and matcha ice cream. It comes with sweet matcha sauce to drizzle on top as you like.

Uji has everything, from a fascinating history to stunning scenery and amazing food and drinks! If you love matcha, then Uji is the place to go. It’s great for a day trip or to stay over and slowly explore all its hidden magic.

The next post will be my final installment, Osaka, so stay tuned!

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FYI, in “How to Get to Uji” above, 3rd paragraph should say “…from central Kyoto”, not Tokyo. 🙂 You can delete this message afterwards.

any recommendations for places to stay with onsen in that area?